Gosha Rubchinskiy has just announced that his next show will take place in St Petersburg. An original decision that doesn’t really surprise from this little fashion genius from the East.
He is the major representant for “post-soviet” fashion. Gosha Rubchinskiy made a phenomenal break on men’s fashion scene by imposing a style inspired from 1990s and the end of the USSR. Sportswear print with joggers and short shorts, zipped denim jackets, scarves to get through the winter, low-cut vests… His wardrobe cultivates a neglected effect, systematically presented on young diaphanous boys with close cut hair. With Demna Gvasalia, the guru from Vetements and Balenciaga, originating from Georgia, he is considered the pope of this new movement.
This doesn’t stop him from nailing partnerships. His marked Russian identity doesn’t actually make him a nationalist designer, and he has been open to collaborations abroad, to enlarge his spectrum. He notably create a capsule collection with South Korean brand Fila or Italian Kappa, before boarding on a long term alliance with the German giant Adidas. The later goes into 2018, when the football World Cup is being hosted by Russia.
His Fairy Godmother: Rei Kawakubo. After having been helped by Fashion East in London, he was spotted by Rei Kawakubo from Comme des Garçons, who invited him into her group. A helping hand which allowed him to show in Paris and gain in popularity, at first with a trendy targeted bunch of a few adepts, then with the more generalist press, intrigued by word of mouth.
He recently started in perfumery. To try new experiences, Rubchinskiy launched in October 2016 his first eponym perfume, that you can find at Comme des Garçons. Inspired by the skate universe, the unisex fragrance was imagined to obtain a smell that evokes the pavement on which glide the boards in the summer, when holidays slow the city down.
For the past few months he’s been operating a return to his roots. In January, his decision had stunned the fashion world: after several years of showing in London or Paris, Gosha Rubchinskiy had invited editors and buyers from the whole world to come and discover his autumn-winter 2017 collection in Kaliningrad, Russian enclave stuck between Poland and Lithuania. For spring-summer 2018, it will be Moscow, the city where the creator was born in 1984 and where are now set his offices. The event will take place on the next 9th June, in a precise place that is still being held secret…